July 11th - HAPPY BIRTHDAY WHITNEY

I write from Cooperstown, ND. Population a little more than 1,000. We are taking a library break before heading on to either Hope or Arthur, ND, depending on how we feel - one being a shortish 23 miles and the other a more substantial 60 miles away. Then tomorrow we will be in Fargo! As of tomorrow we will have been on the road for 1 month! (I've got bike short and glove tans and a sunglass tan to prove it - nevermind increasingly powerful legs:)) We are both getting very used to camping most nights - made much much much more comfortable by the pads we purchased in Sandpoint, ID. There were several nights since then that we would have just been miserable camping on the surface offered. For example, three nights ago we stayed in Esmond, ND. While we had been playing BINGO at the local Esmond Bar (more on that below), the locals had warned us of possible tornadoes. Yikes. We had heard news of possible thunderstorms but tornadoes?! So we set up our tent on the concrete floor of a three sided picnic structure in the town park (where you can camp for free and they even have a shower and bathroom:)) Our sleeping pads made it possible for sleeping on concrete to actually be, um, comfortable.

And, to calm you all, there were no tornadoes. Some seriously bright and big lightning and loud rolling thunder but no tornadoes. They hit western North Dakota more, I heard. We did feel good, however, should there have been tornadoes, knowing that we had a substantial bathouse to hide in, or - as we had been informed by the locals at the bar - knock on anyone's door and they'll let you in. Back to BINGO. Cormac and I arrived in Esmond around 6 or so. We had had a slow day battling strong headwinds from Rugby. It took us way too long to get only 20 miles and we were worn out. So, with about 6 miles left to Esmond, we hitched a ride and were kindly picked up by Mr. Elmer Wolfe. Yep, Elmer. The first Elmer I've ever met. Well Elmer lives in the house that he was born in. "If you don't believe me," Elmer said, "ask my mom." (Now, Elmer is not exactly a young lad) "She's 93 and still drives," he added as he pointed out her house in town as we passed it on the way to the town park. He works the farm that his father worked and his father's father before that. Elmer is hoping his son will be taking it over after him. The park was wonderful. Really North Dakota has the nicest town parks, set up with swings and play stuff as well as picnic tables and grills and bathhouses and plenty of good camping grass and most are free! We went for a little walk and wound our way to to Esmond Bar (ok - so that makes it sound
like it was a big city that we walked for a long time and decided on a certain bar. Nope, actually it was the only establishment opened in the town and it's really really hard to miss:)) Lucy us, because it was BINGO night!!! Every Tuesday and Wednesday locals gather in the bar to play BINGO. There were about 20 people playing - which is a lot given that the town pop is less than 100! We learned the next day while talking to the husband of the woman who calls the letter/number combos that the $500 prize they offer and the $100 prize they offer and which are actually very winnable are both what draw a lot of folks in and what may cause the operation to have to stop in the near future. Hopefully not, cause it was fun! One of the older ladies playing BINGO (note: it was not all older women, there was a young family and some guys too) was Katie Wolfe. Elmer had mentioned his mother's name and when she introduced herself as Katie, I asked if she was Katie Wolfe. She was so happy that Elmer gave us a ride and corrected his math - she is actually 94 but it's hard to believe she is a day over 70.

Ok - the library is closing in 10 minutes so I will get in what I can.

We ended up staying the day on Thursday in Esmond, just to relax and enjoy the nice weather from a non-peddling posture. We had breakfast at the Cafe - on the other side of the block from the bar where the town gathers in the morning. Katie Wolfe was there, a seat saved for her at her usual table. And we borrowed two books from the cafe to read for the day. Sadly we had to return them before we finished but it was a nice way to spend a day.

We left Esmond on Friday morning excited for winds from the NNW at 10-25 mph!! Thanks to these lovely breezes, we managed our first century. Actually, we biked 111 miles yesterday! From Esmond to Binford. A few things: there are Lutheran Churches everywhere in ND - and if there is only 1 church in a town it is likely a lutheran one; North Dakota is not completely flat - we hit some hills in our last 18 miles yesterday; North Dakota is really quite beautiful;
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TO BE CONTINUED...
Peace, Lindsey